Plague doctor mask pattern3/15/2024 With a paper prototype you can fit it to the actor, tape/glue on more pieces as needed, explore different designs, trim without fear of damaging it (can always tape it up or add more paper), etc. I suggest making a prototype out of thick paper (card stock, or several sheets glued together to provide some support). And you end up with a mask that suits your needs and theme better than anything you could buy at a store. It's a fun build, not too difficult, and the materials are super inexpensive. Making your own is great for many reasons. The LEDs are attached to the inside of the mask with magnets, so they can easily be rotated towards the actor's face to create a dramatic effect, or rotated away from the face to provide am more subtle (and less distracting for the actor) effect.įor more information on Plague Doctors and their role in history, check out the following Wikipedia page:Ī tutorial on how this mask was created can be found here: In this case, the lights were programmed to a pulsating green. Inside the mask, there are 2 programmable RGB LEDs, one for each eye. The mask pieces were then stitched together using hemp. Even up close, you would never know it was not real leather.Ī soldering iron was used to melt holes (for stitching) around each piece, which hardens the foam and reinforces the holes. The mask was constructed out of a lightweight foam material, then textured and painted to look like leather. I also laser cut some smoked acrylic lenses that were just dark enough to make the lenses appear pitch black when the mask is being worn, but allow for great visibility even in low-light environments.Īnd finally the masks were completed! This was an amazing project, and I'm really happy with the overall quality of the finished product.This is a Plague Doctor costume I made for 2011. The entire goggle assembly is then stitched to the mask using the same heaver waxed thread as the rest of the mask. Next the goggles were stitched to leather rings using a lighter weight brown waxed thread. You can also see that they still have a good gap allowing air to flow into the mask and help prevent the goggles from fogging up. Their silver appearance provides a bit of contrast to the aged brass of the goggles, and adds a bit of style. These silver pieces were also weathered with brown and patina green washes to age them a bit. Step 10: Attaching the GogglesĪfter the goggles were painted I attached small metal detail pieces over the vent holes in their sides. To make the goggles look more like real metal I dry-brushed bright gold enamel paint over the edges and high-points of the goggles to simulate metal exposed from wear and use of the goggles.įinally the goggles were sealed with a glossy varnish that deepened the weathering and brought out the metallic qualities. The picture for this step shows the goggles at this point, prior to the following 2 steps that really make them pop. Next a more watered-down wash of a reddish brown was applied, followed by multiple washes of a pale green to give the goggles a nice aged patina. They instantly started looking like aged brass. This leaves dark staining in all the deep scratches and dings, and also leaves small streaks on the surface of the goggles. Next a heavy wash of black acrylic paint was brushed onto the goggles and quickly wiped off with crumpled paper towels. After the paint had cured they were hit once again with the wire brushes to add small scratches in the gold paint.
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